![]() ![]() This is more true if the pistons are forged. Idling and waiting for the blue light to go out does nothing apart from waste time and fuel and increases carbon build up. This means the car cannot perform as well as it can when the engine is hot, but it doesn't do any harm. The main difference is the clearances of the pistons and valves are not as close until the engine heats up and the metal expands. The oil still gets pumped around everywhere it needs to be and coolant still ciruclates through the engine, although the thermostat won't be open yet of course. This happens if you are idling or just driving normally. The car automatically adjusts its revs to get the engine up to its designed temperature as soon as possible. This means that you can still drive away as per normal but don't drive like a boy racer with your foot jammed to the floor. The blue light is a warning that the engine hasn't reached its optimum operating temperature. The key difference is, the coolant generally reaches its highest temps when you're in stopped traffic the oil will reach its highest temps when you are charging fast up a mountain pass.Ĭlick to expand.No you don't need to wait. And I'm sure that if/when my red coolant temp light every goes on (it hasn't ever), the oil temperature will also be abnormally high. ![]() The blue coolant light goes out every day, about the same time my oil reaches 100degF give or take a few degrees. Oil temperature and water temperature do not march in lock step up and down with each other exactly, but I find it reassuring to see the digital oil temp number. It's probably not the default display content, you have to read the owners manual to see how to select its displaying. If you do get curious about actual physical temperature measurements, your car (may) offer the possibility of displaying oil temperature as a digital value in the upper center display. If you drive a car older than that, with a gauge, you may see up and down fluctuations of the temperature gauge in normal driving that are quite eyebrow-raising if you're not expecting them. What actually is happening is, the needle is designed to point to the exact same middle "normal" spot on the scale, whether the engine is at 150 deg F or 210 deg F or anywhere between. Don't get too upset about missing anything just because you have no temperature gauge - I'm pretty sure all temperature gauges since about ~1980 really effectively function the same as warning lights, even if they do have needles and supposedly a graduated scale of temperature. ![]()
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